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Day 1 Today our
group convenes in Puerto Varas, a charming German-founded town at the southern
end of the Chilean lake district. Depending on your time of arrival, you can spend
this day any number of ways - whitewater rafting on the Rio Petrohue, hiking on
the flanks of Volcan Osorno, fly-fishing or simply enjoying the town and the splendid
views across the lake. In the evening, the group meets for a welcome dinner before
retiring to our comfortable guesthouse. Day
2 A short flight south in a twin-engine plane brings us to the coastal
village of Chaitén, where we board our van for the drive south through the temperate
rainforests of Chilean Patagonia. Along the way, we cross the mighty, emerald-blue
Rio Palena, which comes surging west out of the Andes from its headwaters in Argentina.
At the beginning of the 1900's, hardy settlers first colonized this broad valley,
rowing upriver from the coast. Our destination on this day is a charming guesthouse
situated on a hilltop overlooking the Palena valley. Upon arrival, we'll have
time to stretch our legs and enjoy the view before preparing to hit the river
the next morning. Day
3 Loading our gear into our Boreal Designs single and double kayaks,
we slide into the waters of Lago Rispatron, which receives the chalk-blue waters
of the Rio Figueroa. After a brief in the lake, we head downriver on the Rio Risopatron
- a sizeable river in its own right - before entering the main flow of the Palena.
The river flows through open country, past active homesteads; in the afternoon
we take out and camp near the home of a local settler who provides us a delicious
lamb asado - a fitting welcome to the wilds of Chilean Patagonia. Day
4 Today we break camp and continue downriver, helped along by the Palena's
powerful current. An easy day -- by early afternoon we arrive at our next campsite,
a white sand beach directly across the river from a virgin hotsprings, with the
glaciated peak of Volcan Melimoyu looming above us. Life doesn't get much better
than this! Day
5 Leaving our idyllic campsite behind, we continue on towards the Pacific,
as the Palena gradually loses its current and passes through immense oxbox curves.
In the afternoon, we leave the main flow of the river and enter a narrow channel,
overhung by dense vegetation, which leads us to the protected waters of the Pitipalena
estuary. We camp on the shores of the estuary, surrounded by massive peaks rising
straight up from the water's edge. Day
6 An easy paddle brings us out to the mouth of the estuary and the idyllic
village of Raul Marín Balmaceda. Accessible only by boat, this remarkable village
is built on a broad sand spit between the mouth of the Palena and that of the
estuary - all told, it contains a general store, one restaurant, a police station,
a guesthouse and a couple of cabanas. As we arrive at the town's beach, pods of
porpoises swim alongside to greet us - in 2002 they actually gave us a show straight
out of Seaworld, as a group of sixty or more buzzed by the beach, leaping from
the water in groups of five or six at a time! Tonight we stay in comfortable rustic
cabins in the village. Day
7-8 For two days we'll explore the stunning marine environments of the
estuary and the Pacific Ocean beyond. Weather permitting, we'll head to the offshore
islands to visit sea lion colonies and kelp goose rookeries, or head up the estuary
to visit more hotsprings near the base of another glaciated volcano; otherwise,
we'll explore the area in day trips, returning to our cozy cabins and feasting
on fresh seafood at night. Day
9 All good things must come to an end, and today is the day. After a morning
free to enjoy the absolute peace and isolation which envelops this tiny village
far beyond the reach of the modern world, we board our charter aircraft for a
flight direct from Raul Marin's local airstrip to Puerto Montt, for the transfer
back to Vicki Johnson's, our home away from home. A farewell dinner wraps it up,
though the hardy may opt to check out Puerto Varas' friendly and late-burning
nightlife. Day
10 End of program. | |